Bottled Apple Cider
Bottled cider, with its pleasant effervescence and mild alcoholic content, is now widely available in major cities throughout North America as we had anticipated when that first tasting was organized last fall. Americans are greeting bottled cider with the same enthusiasm that has been shown for fresh cider during the past ten years. Cider is now a feature in many wine shops and restaurants) as well as in stores that specialize in wholesome foods.
All ciders) both bottled and fresh) not only originate from the same natural source but share certain other characteristics as well. As you learn to identify and appreciate these qualities) you will not only find great enjoyment in tasting different kinds of cider - both imported and domestic - but will develop a palate for cider that will guide you reliably in future buying.
Some of the qualities that are usually sought in good wine are also descriptive of bottled cider. For example: flavor) body) and balance between acid and sugar. Many basic elements of good wine are found in most ciders) even though cider is generally blended for uniformity and) unlike wine) does not improve with bottle age. Although the elements of character) style and substance are rarely as complex or sophisticated in cider as they are in wine) their existence gives a basis for comparison among ciders as well as a terminology familiar to wine lovers who have turned their interest to cider.
A comparative tasting of bottled ciders is both an enjoyable and instructive experience. There need be no mandatory protocol with respect to number of participants or varieties of cider. Scoring tended to be somewhat arbitrary and superfluous in our experience at several tastings last year. It is more helpful to simply make notes with certain specific characteristics in mind and then record an overall general impression. Discussion among tasters proved to be very helpful as well.
The most easily identified characteristic of bottled cider is the belance between sweetness and acidity. In certain parts of Canada) bottled cider is likely to be minimally sweet because much Canadian cider is produced in Ontario and Quebec, where the French influence affects cider. In the United States) however) most bottled cider - especially that imported from western Canada) England and France - is moderately to markedly sweet. The drier varieties are noticeably absent in most retail outlets in the U.S. in part because those ciders are in great demand in their countries of origin and there is little available for export; also) the marketing specialists at the large European cider-makers assume that Coca-Cola-weaned residents of the U.S. prefer sweet drinks. As a result, the cider that you may have enjoyed on a trip to France, for example, may be quite different than the cider sold underthe same label at your local wine shop in the U.S.
The sweetness of bottled cider should be balanced with some acidity, and often is, especially in the more carefully made labels. The bitterness of tannin, present in the English apples grown and pressed strictly for cider, provides another aspect of balance in certain imported ciders as well.
Flavor or fruitiness is very desirable in bottled cider. This quality varies considerably from ciders with distinct apple character to those with absolutely no hint of any natural origin whatsoever. As an aspect of flavor, the aftertaste of any cider should always be smooth and pleasant. Any rough, chemical or oxidized flavor is simply unacceptable.
Color and aroma give important indications of the care with which the cider was made. Good bottled cider ranges in color from light amber to pale straw. Browning is undesirable because it indicates that oxidation occurred during crushing and pressing. Well-made cider has a definite, usually faint, aroma of fruit. Any foul or off-odors are the result of careless production.
Body is a measure of the blending process that most ciders undergo.
Some ciders are blended by mixing together ciders produced from different batches of apples. This results in a product with a pleasant, full body. A less than satisfying product - with a too-thin body - can and often does result in cider to which excess water has been added before bottling.
Effervescence is characteristic of many bottled ciders. The bubbliness in most ciders is created just before or during bottling by artificial carbonation and is noted on the label with the wine terms petillsm, mousseux or sparkling. Bottle-fermented cider made in the manner and style of champagne boasts natural carbonation.
As we tasted and compared bottled ciders at several different sessions, we looked for some balance, pleasant flavor, good color, and fragrant aroma. Full body and moderate effervescence were also desirable. As notes were made and discussion flourished around the table, though, the most useful rating came under the heading of overall impression. The best descriptions of certain ciders became more poetic than analytical.
Although there was never any unanimous agreement on a single favorite, nearly every taster left the gathering with a preference, as well as a label or two to be avoided in the future. Cider seems to fall into several different styles, some of which were more attractive to certain tasters than others. Interestingly, a cider’s style is often a clue to its nationality. In general, the French ciders are light and very fruity, moderately effervescent and somewhat sweet. The English ciders are often full in body and flavor and are well-balanced. Canadian cider tends to be lighter and often sweeter than the cider from Europe. Although there are several brands of domestic cider sold in the United States, we were only able to locate one for our tastings. That bottle-fermented cider was particularly dry, fruity and flavorful, and was greatly enjoyed by all of its tasters.